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Cedi, cash, cards, ATMs and mobile money: how money really works in Ghana for UK visitors, and how not to lose it.
Ghana's currency is the cedi (GHS), divided into 100 pesewas. Notes run from small denominations up to the large notes you will get from ATMs; coins are used for the smallest amounts. Prices in shops, markets and trotros are always in cedis, and you should pay in cedis, even where someone offers to take pounds or dollars. The rate they give you will rarely be in your favour.
The cedi has lost value sharply against the pound at times, and it can move noticeably within a single trip. That is why we do not print an exchange rate here. Check the current rate on the day, and expect prices for imported goods and hotels to follow the currency.
Outside upmarket hotels, supermarkets and some restaurants, Ghana runs on cash and mobile money. Markets, street food, trotros, taxis, small guesthouses, entrance fees at many sites and village visits are cash. Carry it, but carry it sensibly.
Pounds sterling change easily in Accra and the bigger towns at licensed forex bureaus. Bureaus give better rates than the airport and much better rates than hotel desks. Bank of England notes are the ones to bring; Scottish and Northern Irish notes are often refused.
Bring clean, untorn notes. Bureaus look closely and turn away anything marked, folded hard or damaged. Never change money with men on the street offering a better rate. The best case is a bad rate; the worst is counterfeit notes or a short-changed bundle.
ATMs are common in cities and larger towns, and most accept UK Visa and Mastercard debit cards. In rural areas and the north they become scarce and sometimes run out of cash on Fridays and before holidays. Draw what you need before you head off the main routes.
Card payments work in larger hotels, supermarkets, malls, some restaurants and for airline tickets. Away from those, expect cash or mobile money. A UK card with no foreign transaction fees saves real money over a two-week trip. As anywhere, keep an eye on your card when it is being used and check your statements.
Card machines and networks go down, sometimes for hours. Never rely on a card alone, even in an expensive hotel.
Mobile money ("MoMo") is how much of Ghana pays: market sellers, taxi drivers, guesthouses and even small roadside stalls take payment by phone. The main services are run by the mobile networks, MTN being the largest.
For a short holiday you can manage without it. For longer stays, regular visits or staying with family, it is worth registering a mobile money wallet on a local SIM card. You will need your passport to register. It also makes it easy for relatives in the UK to top you up, and for you to pay people without carrying cash.
Ghana SIM and mobile dataWhy a local MTN SIM beats an eSIM, on ghana-net.com.This is a big part of life for Ghanaians in Britain, and the cost difference between providers is large. Online money-transfer services can pay out straight into a Ghanaian bank account or a mobile money wallet, often within minutes. Traditional bank transfers are slower and usually much more expensive.
Ghana is not as cheap as many UK visitors expect. Imported goods, Western-style restaurants and good hotels in Accra cost close to UK prices, and sometimes more. Local food, transport and markets are far cheaper. The way to keep a budget under control is to eat and travel the way Ghanaians do.
Bargaining is normal in markets and with taxi drivers without meters; agree the taxi fare before you get in. It is not normal in supermarkets, pharmacies or shops with marked prices. Bargain with a smile; a few cedis matter more to the seller than to you.
Tipping is not compulsory but is welcome: for guides, drivers, porters and good restaurant service. On booked tours, entrance fees are included in the price, while tips for your guide and driver are not included but always appreciated.
The real cost of travelling in GhanaBudget guide, on ghana-net.com. The hidden costs of living in GhanaFor longer stays and returnees, on ghana-net.com. Where to stayWhat your money buys, region by region. Trip planning, step by stepThe full order of things.